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Viaje a Benin el reino del vudú | Mint57 Viajes diferentes Viajes Mint57º > Cuando viajar > Enero > Benin, la esencia de África
Benin, la esencia de África Etnias nómadas vudú y fetiches PORQUÉ ES UN VIAJE DIFERENTE » Benín es el África verdadera , la que todavía conocen muy pocos turistas. Viajar a Benin es tener una alma pionera.
» Benín es el centro de la cultura afro-brasileña. Principal centro de exportación de esclavos en toda África y entrada principal de las influencias europeas desde el siglo XV.
» La magía es la esencia de Benín, que es el único país en el mundo donde una religión animista, el vudú o la “religión bailada” , es una de las religiones oficiales.
ITINERARIO Día 1/ CIUDAD DE ORIGEN – COTONOU/ LOMÉ Vuelo internacional hacia Lomé (Togo) o Cotonou (Benín) , según el vuelo elegido. A la llegada nuestro guía nos esperará para trasladarnos al hotel del Cotonou, donde pasaremos la noche.
Alojamiento: Hotel du Lac.
Día 2/ COTONOU – LAGO NOKOUE – GANVIE – COTONOU Esta mañana empezaremos nuestro viaje dando una primera vuelta la ciudad de Cotonou . Esta ciudad portuaria nos muestra los vestigios de la época comunista que han marcado la fisonomía de la capital económica de Benín.
Nos dirigiremos luego hasta el lago Nokoue, donde embarcaremos en una piragua que nos hasta Ganvié, la ‘Venecia Africana’ , poblado de pescadores de la etnia Tofí que se refugiaron en el lago Nokoué en el siglo XVIII huyendo del esclavitud. Volvermos a Cotonou por la tarde.
Día 3/ COTONOU – PORTO NOVO (1h) Hoy salimos hacia la capital política del país, Porto Novo . Esta ciudad es una fusión increíble entre la cultura yoruba las influencias coloniales inglesas, francesas y portuguesas.
Seguiremos luego hasta un pueblo animista del río Negro , donde tendremos nuestro primer acercamiento a la religión vudú .
La palabra vudú o voodoo , significa “alma” o “fuerza” en lengua fongbè . Sus orígenes se remontan al principio de los tiempos, cuando el ser humano intentó explicar el mundo natural que le rodeaba. Se calcula que esta particular creencia animista se originó en esta zona hace unos 4.000 años y desde entonces ha ido evolucionando, recibiendo varias influencias hasta nuestros días. Para los seguidores de esta religión las almas de los difuntos se quedan entre los vivos, se transforman en animales o en árboles y se comunican con ellas a través del baile.
Alojamiento: Hotel Songhai.
Día 4/ PORTO NOVO – ONIGBOLO (2h) Esta mañana nos dirigiremos hasta Onigbolo, el país de la etnia Holi . Durante todo el día entraremos en contacto con esta tribu para entender su modo de vida basada sobre la agricultura y la recolección. Los Holi, como otras tribus beninesas, se tatúan y escarifican la cara como señal de pertenencia a la comunidad, a parte que como símbolo de belleza.
Alojamiento: Residence Celine.
Día 5/ ONIGBOLO – MONTES AGONLÍN – DJOUGOU (5h) Desayuno y excursión hasta las colinas de Agonlín para conocer la forma de vida de las dos etnias que pueblan esta desconocida región de Benín. Los Fon Agonlín –agricultores animistas- y los Fula, nómadas islamizados. Caminaremos por el monte atravesando poblados tradicionales, charlando con sus habitantes.
Uno de los objetivos es visitar uno de los campamentos nómadas de los Fulani y conocer su forma de vida marcada por el ganado, las trashumancia y el culto a la belleza de tanto hombres como mujeres: peinados, gorros, tatuajes…un pueblo fascinante! Seguiremos luego hasta Djougou , un largo camino de unas 5h aproximadamente.
Alojamiento: Motel du Lac.
Día 6/ DJOUGOU – TAKENA – DJOUGOU (1h) Hoy nos retomaremos el camino hasta Taneka Coco, el cerro de Taneka desde donde se divisa toda la llanura del Sahel beninés y donde podremos visitar algunos poblados de adobe y piedra. Tendremos la posibilidad de quedarnos a pasear con calma en el pueblo, sacar fotos y hablar con el jefe local y las gente de la comunidad.
Día 7/ DJOUGOU – NATITINGOU – BOUKOUMBE (2h)
Esta mañana seguiremos la ruta hasta la Sierra de Atakora, punto más alto de Benín donde el paisaje cambia radicalmente y se torna más montañoso con pequeños valles habitados por varias etnias animistas de los que destacan los ditamarí o somba conocidos como los artesanos del adobe. Sus famosas casas de dos pisos llamadas ‘tata’ son únicas en África y vale la pena visitarlas con tranquilidad.
Alojamiento: Tata Kouberti.
Día 8/ BOUKOUMBE – TOGO – DJOUGOU (2+2h) Desayuno en Boukombé y día para descubrir la cultura ditamarí , su arquitectura y cultura ancestral. Desde Boukombé entraremos algunos kilómetros en Togo para conocer las ‘tata’ de la etnia tamberma , emparentada con los ditamarí.
Según el día de la semana podremos ver un mercado u otro, antes de volver a Djougou donde pasaremos la noche. En el camino podremos parar a refrescarnos en las bonitas cascadas de Kota.
Alojamiento: Motel du Lac.
Día 9/ DJOUGOU – ABOMEY (6h) Desayuno temprano para empezar un largo camino hacia el sur (6h aprox), hasta la capital real de Benín, la histórica Abomey , donde se encuentra el único monumento Patrimonio de la Humanidad de Benin: el Palacio Real. Si tendremos energía podremos dar un paseo al mercado nocturno de la ciudad.
Alojamiento: Auberge de Abomey.
Día 10/ ABOMEY – BOPA (2h) Tras tres siglos de comercio, los monarcas de Abomey se enriquecieron enormemente y desarrollaron las artes cortesanas: textiles, orfebrería, danzas, música. Todavía quedan reminiscencias de ese pasado ostentoso que acabó con la derrota del rey Behanzin frente a las tropas coloniales francesas .
Recorrer el palacio es volver a los tiempos del poderoso y sangriento reino que fue una de las semillas del actual Benín. Seguiremos luego hacia Bopa, para sumergirnos en los rituales vudús relacionados con las deidades del agua (Mami Wata) y los misteriosos zangbetos. Charlaremos con el gran sacerdote de Hevioso , dios del trueno y los relámpagos, y los adeptos.
Alojamiento: Hotel Chez Theo.
Día 11/ BOPA – SÉ – OUIDAH (1h) Hoy retomaremos la carretera hasta Ouidah, antiguo puerto de comercio de esclavos hacia EEUUU, Brasil y el Caribe. Visitaremos el barrio afrobrasileño , con mercado central y las casas coloniales cerca de la catedral, frente al Templo de las Pitones.
Recorreremos luego el último tramo de la llamada “ruta de los esclavos”, un camino cargado de sentimiento desde la plaza donde eran subastados hasta el hasta el llamado “punto de no retorno”, desde donde más de dos millones de esclavos partieron hacia América.
Alojamiento: Hotel Diaspora.
Día 12/ OUIDAH – COTONOU (2h) Nuestro viaje ha llegado a su fin. Hoy volveremos a Cotonou por la ruta paralela al mar, pasando por pequeñas comunidades pesqueras. Si tenemos tiempo en Cotonou podremos visitar el mercado Dantokpa , uno de los más grandes y apasionantes de toda África occidental. Trás una cena de despedida y un poco de descanso en el hotel iremos al aeropuerto para coger el avión de vuelta.
Alojamiento: Hotel du Lac.
Día 13/ LLEGADA A CASA Llegada a casa por la mañana. ¡Hasta el próximo viaje!
Precio detallado PRECIOS Desde 1200€
INCLUYE » Guía local de habla hispana » Alojamiento en habitación doble en los hoteles indicados o similares con desayuno » Transportes en vehículos privados durante todo el recorrido, con conductor, peajes y gasolina » Todas las excursiones mencionadas » Seguro de viaje básico
NO INCLUYE » Billetes aéreos internacionales (entrada desde Lomé o desde Cotonou) » Ampliación del seguro médico y seguro de cancelación (60€) » Visado de entrada a Benín (70€) – Visado de entrada a Benin+Togo (120€) » Visado de entrada a Togo 24h (15€) » Comidas y cenas » Todo lo que no esté incluido en el apartado ‘El precio incluye’
VUELOS A partir de 800€
Vuelos a Cotonou o Lomé (Togo). Puedes comprar los billetes de forma independiente o a través de Mint57
Datos prácticos DOCUMENTACIÓN » Pasaporte: Se necesita pasaporte con validez de 6 meses.» Visado: Para entrar en Benín únicamente se puede obtener el visado de forma electrónica a través de la web Benín. Éste documento se expide en un plazo de 48 horas, aunque recomendamos solicitarlo con más antelación.» Carnet de conducir: Para la circulación en Benín, así como para el alquiler de vehículos, es necesario disponer del carnet de conducir internacional.» Certificado de vacunas: Se requiere certificado de vacunación internacional a toda persona mayor de 1 año, sobre todo si ha transitado por un país con riesgo de transmisión de Fiebre Amarilla.
VACUNAS PARA VIAJAR A BENÍN » Vacunas obligatorias: Fiebre Amarilla.» Vacunas recomendadas: Tétanos, fiebre tifoidea, meningitis y la hepatitis A y B.. Para más información sobre salud y vacunas te aconsejamos visitar la web del Ministerio de Sanidad
EQUIPAJE ¿Cuánto pesa mi equipaje? Estos son lo pesos aproximados permitidos en los aviones (controlar en las webs de las aerolíneas). Recomendamos estar siempre atentos al peso para evitar recargos en los aeropuertos: » Vuelos internacionales: hasta 23kg en la maleta facturada y 10kg en el equipaje de mano. » Vuelos locales: 15/20kg en la maleta facturada y 8/10 kg en el equipaje de mano.
¡Un consejo viajero! Por mucha capacidad que te de la compañía aérea te aconsejamos adecuar el peso de tu equipaje al tipo de viaje: » Que la maleta/mochila no pese más de 13/14kg para moverse con facilidad. » En caso de viajes en coche/ 4×4 podrían haber limitaciones de peso/ tamaño (consúltanos)
Equipaje Básico » Maleta/mochila (según preferencias o tipo de viaje, consúltanos) » Mochila pequeña para excursiones » Candado para maleta/mochila » Móvil/ Reloj con despertador » Adaptador de enchufe internacional » Neceser de aseo personal » Protección solar » Lentillas/ Gafas » Gafas de sol » Tapones oídos
Otros Consulta la pestaña «Importante» dentro del viaje seleccionado.
BOTIQUÍN DE VIAJE Aconsejamos llevar un botiquín con medicamentos genéricos y de uso personal: » Ibuprofeno/ Paracetamol » Antibiótico general (ej. amoxicilina) » Anti inflamatorio (ej. ibuprofeno) » Antipirético (ej. paracetamol) » Protector gástrico » Antidiarréico / Laxante » Suero oral » Crema para quemaduras » Crema antibiótica » Antihistamínico / Crema con cortisona para alergias y picaduras » Relajante muscular » Medicamentos para el mareo » Spray anti-mosquitos » Desinfectante para manos » Toallitas húmedas » Tampax/ Compresas » Medicamentos de uso personal (llevar la receta médica) » Medicamento para el mar de altura (sólo si aconsejado por el médico y solo para viajes a más de 3000m) » Profilaxis contra la malaria u otras vacunas (sólo si aconsejado por el Centro de Vacunación)
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Descubre lo mejor del país QUÉ VER Y QUÉ HACER EN BENÍN LA MAGIA DE SUS CIUDADES Porto Novo es una mezcla de la herencia de portugueses, franceses e ingleses, fácil de apreciar en su arquitectura colonial. Además de contar con el barrio Afro-brasileño, cuna de esta cultura. Una ciudad que respira historia y cultura. Cotonou es otra de las ciudades más importantes, siendo esta la capital económica de Benín. Sin duda, lo más destacado de la ciudad es el mercado de Dantokpa, uno de los más grandes de todo el Golfo de Guinea. La ciudad es una perfecta puerta de entrada al mundo del vudú y las creencias animistas. Ganvie, más conocida como la Venecia africana, una ciudad donde se vive sobre el agua. La etnia mayoritaria aquí son los tofí, fundadores de la ciudad huyendo de los esclavistas. Un lugar donde sus habitantes viven todo el día encima de una barca.
FESTIVAL DEL VUDÚ Todo un acontecimiento en el país, cada 10 de enero se celebra el Festival del Vudú y las Religiones Tradicionales. Tiene su origen en colectivos afroamericanos de los 90 para revivir su pasado. Varios días de celebración en los que se organizan ceremonias y rituales para honrar a los antepasados, todo para reivindicar la religión Vudú y otros credos animistas.
PARQUE NACIONAL PENDJARI Este parque nacional es parte de un complejo mayor conocido como Complejo W, el cual abarca Benín, Burkina Faso y Níger. Pero, sin duda, la parte principal es la que se encuentra en Benín, una reserva virgen y auténtica. Y es que son muy pocos los turistas que acuden a Pendjari, por lo que es perfecto para los amantes de la fauna más salvaje. Babuinos, leones, guepardos, hienas, elefantes… son solo algunas de las especies que podemos encontrar en este parque bañado por el río Pendjari.
COSTA DE GRAND POPO Un paraíso de tranquilidad en la costa de Benín. Hablamos de un pueblo de pescadores, donde la mayoría de sus habitantes se dedican a ello, todo en un entorno salvaje. Las playas son de arena fina, con grandes cocoteros, donde el mar suele estar agitado y se puede disfrutar del movimiento de las olas. Además, muy cerca se encuentra la desembocadura del río Mono, donde el agua dulce se mezcla con el mar en un laberinto de ensenadas de arena y grandes manglares donde se pescan cangrejos.
TRIBUS DE BENÍN Los Holi, ubicados al norte de Porto Novo. Una etnia fácil de distinguir gracias a las escarificaciones faciales y sus tatuajes corporales. Además, se cree que es uno de los últimos pueblos antropófagos que ha existido en África. Apenas quedan unas 50.000 personas de esta etnia. Los Yoruba, uno de los pueblos más importantes de toda África con más de 25 millones de individuos. Su influencia la encontramos no solo en Benín, sino en casi todos los países del Golfo de Guinea, además de países como Brasil o Venezuela. Los Yoruba controlan el comercio del país y, por lo tanto, parte del poder económico de Benín. La etnia Somba o Otamari, como se les conoce en Benín, famosos por sus construcciones tradicionales, las “tatas”. Situados en la región montañosa de Atakora y divididos entre el valle de Boukombé en Benín y la región de Kutammaku en Togo.
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Información del destino SEGURIDAD La seguridad en Benín es buena, el ambiente en general es cordial con el extranjero aunque se recomienda siempre mantenerse en grupo o acompañado por personas con experiencia en Benín. Como siempre decimos, precaución y sentido común.
Para más información sobre seguridad te aconsejamos visitar la web del Ministerio de Exteriores ¡Un consejo viajero! Tener mucho cuidado en las fronteras con Burkina Faso y con Níger, ya que podrían sufrir irrupciones de grupos terroristas ; estar siempre alerta y sobre todo seguir siempre las indicaciones de la persona experta que os acompañe.
SEGURIDAD COMUNIDAD LGTB En Benín las relaciones sexuales entre personas del mismo sexo no son bien aceptadas. Sin embargo, esto no impide poder disfrutar de los maravillosos lugares en pareja. De igual manera, aconsejamos a todos nuestros viajeros de la comunidad LGBTI no dar muestra pública de cariño.
ENTORNO NATURAL La selva densa tropical cubrió antaño gran parte de las tierras próximas a la costa de Benín, las palmeras son ahora los principales árboles de la región. Los bosques ocupan gran parte de la zona central, y las praderas predominan en el norte más seco. Un tercio de la tierra de Benín está ocupada por bosques, a pesar de que su tasa de deforestación es superior a la media de África. En un viaje a Benín podrás admirar elefantes, leones, hipopótamos, monos, jabalíes, búfalos, antílopes, cocodrilos, hienas, panteras y miles de aves, como ibis, garzas, garcetas, abejarucos y cigüeñas. El Parque Nacional de Pendjari es un lugar ideal para observar la vida silvestre. En Benín, la flora es bastante convencional y está en línea con lo que te encontrarás en esta parte del continente. Verás baobabs, queseros, bosques espesos y vastas mesetas recubierta de sabana.
TURISMO RESPONSABLE El lago Nokoué, ubicado en Cotonou, es una importante fuente hídrica y uno de los sostenes de la economía de Benín. De él dependen el sustento de entre tres y cuatro millones de habitantes. Sin embargo, la pesca excesiva y diferentes tipos de polución tienen un impacto negativo en su potencial económico y en su ecosistema. Es por eso que muchas personas al ver esto ha han llamado la atención de los pescadores locales para enseñarles la manera de realizar una pesca adecuada y para que las autoridades reaccionen y tomen medidas para evitar un mayor daño medio ambiental.
Si quieres saber más sobre que significa viajar de forma responsable o quieres conocer la condición de la fauna en el destino donde vamos a viajar, aquí tienes algunas sugerencias:
» No existen malos viajeros, existen viajeros mal informados: Vademecum del Viajero Responsable » FAADA: Turismo responsable con los animales Benín » Participa en un voluntariado a través de la Asociación BLUA
MONEDA Y TARJETAS DE CREDITO La moneda oficial en Benín es el Franco CFA (XOF).Consulta este conversor de divisas » El cambio de divisas se puede hacer en bancos o en establecimientos cambiarios autorizados; es recomendable cambiarlos en bancos autorizados » Hay cajeros automáticos en las principales poblaciones tanto de Benín, incluso en ciudades no demasiado grandes. Así que obtener dinero no es un problema. Lo que sí suele ser menos usual es la utilización de la tarjeta de crédito, salvo en hoteles y restaurantes de alta gama, donde sí las aceptan.
TELÉFONO E INTERNET » Hay buena cobertura telefónica en casi todo el país, se aconseja llevar un móvil que no se use demasiado y que pueda ser utilizado como punto de conexión. »La acceso a internet en buena , no tiene una conexión veloz como la de Japón o Corea, pero si lo suficientemente buena como para ver paginas webs, subir cosas a redes sociales o hablar por WhatsApp.
¡Un consejo viajero! Recordar desactivar el Roaming antes de llegar a destino. Los precios de los datos fuera de Europa pueden ser muy altos. » Se aconseja comprar una tarjeta telefónica y recargarla , mejor en una tienda oficial, dado que a veces hay que configurar el servidor y la VPN del teléfono para que pueda funcionar correctamente.
ELECTRICIDAD Y ENCHUFES Consultar la web. Enchufes del mundo
IDIOMA El idioma oficial en Benín es el francés. Sin embargo, los idiomas indígenas como el Fon y el Yoruba son los más hablados entre la población.
GASTRONOMÍA Y ALERGIAS Debido a la diversidad étnica y cultural que abarca Benín, su gastronomía también es muy diversa, y en muchas poblaciones su principal ingrediente es el maíz ya que sirve para la elaboración de diferentes platillos se hacen bolitas que luego se consumen con salsas hechas a base de cacahuate o verduras. En los hogares mayormente su alimentación es a base carne de buey, pollo, cerdo y conejo, que se acompañan de vegetales y arroz. Debido a que los animales son criados de forma salvaje, el sabor de su carne es diferente al de los animales que son criados concretamente para el consumo. Al sur de Benín el pescado es su principal alimento, lo acompañan de frutas frescas como el banano, naranja, piña, papaya y mango. Al norte se consume mucho queso elaborado de leche de vaca y el ñame. En cuanto a la mayoría de restaurantes es muy probable encontrar cervezas de elaboración casera pero también una que otra de exportación, así como refrescos de cola tradicionales. También existen varios licores nacionales que son muy populares entre los benineses.
Intolerancia y alergias: Benín para las personas vegetarianas no será un gran problema, a pesar de que la mayoría de sus comidas el principal ingrediente sea la carne existen otras opciones. Las personas celíacas en su mayoría podrán disfrutar de la gastronomía de Benín, ya que usa mucho carne, arroz y vegetales. Por otro lado los viajeros que son alérgicos a los frutos secos tener mucho cuidado porque uno de los ingredientes más utilizados por los benineses.
LIBROS, PELICULAS Y CURIOSIDADES Libros
» Feliz norte. Cuentos de Aimé Billion, de Árpád Kun. Esta es la historia de Aimé Billion, un hombre que se siente no sólo extranjero en cualquier parte del mundo, sino hasta en su propio cuerpo. Aunque pertenece a la tribu de los Yoruba y su abuelo era un brujo africano, su ascendencia franco-vietnamita hace que los africanos lo consideren como un hombre blanco, mientras que los blancos lo ven como un africano. Tras sus primeros treinta y ocho años de vida en Benin, decide afincarse en la lejana Noruega, donde saben mucho acerca de lo que significa ser extranjero y estar aislado. Es entre esta gente reservada, y a través de su trabajo cuidando ancianos, donde encontrará la felicidad y el camino de regreso a su verdadero hogar.» Benín , de Stuart Butler (2019).Explican con detalle la historia, costumbres, religión, lenguaje y medio ambiente de la región que describen. Incluyen una sección de consejos prácticos y detallados mapas y planos. Son guías de autor, en las que el escritor nos introduce en la vida local y nos acompaña con sus consejos y opiniones. Pensadas para conocer y comprender el lugar que se visita.
Cine
» África Paradis, dirigida por Sylvestre Amoussou (2006). Está película viaja al futuro hacia el año 2033, los Estados Unidos de África han entrado en una era de prosperidad, mientras que Europa ha sucumbido a la miseria y el subdesarrollo. Los franceses Olivier, informático, y Pauline, maestra, están en paro, y ante la situación laboral a la que se enfrentan en su país, deciden probar suerte en África, hacia donde emigran de manera clandestina.» Indochine, sur les traces d’une mère, dirigida por Idrissou Mora-Kpai(2010). Entre 1946 y 1954 más de 60.000 soldados africanos fueron enviados a Extremo Oriente para luchar contra el Viet Minh. Hubo uniones entre mujeres vietnamitas y soldados africanos de las que nacieron niños. Algunos se quedaron con sus madres, pero otros fueron llevados a África. A partir de la historia de Christophe, un afro-asiático de 58 años, Idrissou Mora-Kpai no solo cuenta la trayectoria de estos niños mestizos, sino la lucha contra natura en la que se oponían los africanos colonizados a los vietnamitas que luchaban por su independencia.
LINKS ÚTILES Ministerio de Asuntos Exteriores de España (MAE): Benín
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ARTÍCULOS DEL BLOG Fede Mint57 13/11/2017
África sigue siendo un misterio, un reto, una multiplicidad de mundos a descubrir: etnias, voces y culturas. Cada país africano… Leer más
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